Jana, an iconic showroom more like an art gallery than a clothing store. Your hostess? Alda Farinella. With her intuitive and refined capacity, with bold and experimental set-ups, she presented a very select and unconventional collection of clothes and accessories by emerging designers, which she first proposed in the city: from the Japanese scene of Comme des Garçons to the Belgian scene of Margiela, together, among others, with Paul Harnden, Carol Christian Poell and Vivienne Westwood.

Intro

Jana: The universe of Alda Farinella  by Maurizio Cilli and Stefano Mirti

The second episode of Archivi d’Affetto is dedicated to the relationship between our city with fashion and costume through another special and unique story: a tribute to the extraordinary professional story of Alda Farinella. Daughter of Adriana Corino, absolute ace of tailored shirts for men and women, Alda learnt the trade and quickly discovered the secrets of her mother’s art. She abandoned her studies in Economics; she didn’t draw or sew; her talent was made of sensitivity and absolute good taste towards the finest fabrics, attention to detail and the amused ability to satisfy the vanities of customers. Alda was a merchant.

When we talk about design, we usually focus on the authors (designers) or companies. On the process or rather the product. Rarely we talk about the other subjects involved in the different product chains. Focusing our attention on Jana is not only the story of a truly special human and professional story. It is a precise choice, that of talking about design from a different point of view, unexpected, often forgotten and left in the background.

Alda opened her shops under the name of Jana, the affectionate diminutive with which her friends called her mother. She joined her mother in 1965 in the atelier located in the gallery that connects Via Pomba to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Later in Corso Giulio Cesare, in front of Teatro Adua, then in Piazza Solferino on the ground floor of Filippo Turati’s birthplace, a space in which she collaborated with Gianni Combi. For a short time, she moved her business to Via Amendola and in the 1980s she opened the space under the arcades of Piazza Vittorio Veneto on the corner of Caffè Elena, where, in the autumn of 1993, a selection of clothes by Belgian designer Martin Margiela was presented in absolute preview. Finally, the last, the largest, in Via Maria Vittoria 45. It was a one-of-a-kind space, more like an art gallery than a clothing store where the art of presenting her very select collection of clothes, accessories, and objects to love took shape. A space with an essential atmosphere; nothing like it had ever been seen before.

Here Alda proposed clothes by designers and emerging companies, the first in the city. And more, she presented garments with austere, minimalist lines that betrayed the symmetries and shapes of conventional fashion. Jana was the scene in which a selected clientele became attached to the attitude and touch of Japanese school design. Dresses derived from the lines designed by Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons, a fashion house where Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara and Adrian Joffe formed. In Alda’s space, the people of Turin fell in love with the clothes of Yohji Yamamoto and Vivienne Westwood (an authentic muse for Alda). In the early 2000s, Jana first proposed the creations of European designers such as Paul Harnden, Elena Dawson, and Carol Christian Poell.

It was not easy to become a customer of Jana’s; you could wish to be one but she was the one to choose. In her comments she was frank, a subtle game of sagacity and irony that traced a path that, after her, few have been able to follow.

Design is also trade, money, customers, suppliers, shops. A world that, as customers, we know well: this exhibition reminds us of the central role of the subject who “sells” the product. A subject now threatened by the impersonality of online commerce and the omnivorous nature of large-scale retail. Precisely for this reason, we like presenting Alda and her Jana store in such a special way. A fashion store that managed to give a very defined character to a small (but important) piece of the city. A tribute to the professionalism of those who deal with “selling” design in its many facets.

This episode of Archivi d’Affetto does not want to be just a well-deserved tribute but also a chance to offer Alda a new opportunity, in the present, just before her sudden death on February 4, 2024. An occasion to take voice and extend her hand to the many students in the city who, at this time, have chosen to study to become professionals in the fashion industry in various capacities. According to this intention, the collaboration with Maria De Ambrogio and Stella Tosco of “Serien°umerica” was an opportunity to donate the privilege to Matteo Giaretti and Federico Ponzo, two young and promising designers with direct work experience to design a collection of shirts dedicated to the work of Alda Farinella. Renewing the dream and the desire that, soon in the city, someone will pick up her legacy and her transgressive attitude.

Who

Alda Farinella

Alda Farinella was born in Turin on 27 September 1942, the daughter of Adriana Corino, a shirt maker, and Emilio Farinella, a Public Security employee. In December 1964, she enrolled in the Faculty of Economics of Turin, studies that she abandoned to devote herself to selling in her mother’s atelier located inside the gallery that linked Via Pomba to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.  

Several store openings followed with the name of Jana, an affectionate diminutive with which her friends called her mother, first in Corso Giulio Cesare, in front of Teatro Adua, then in Piazza Solferino on the ground floor of Filippo Turati’s birthplace, for a short period in Via Amendola, until, starting in the 1980s, in the space under the arcades of Piazza Vittorio Veneto on the corner of Caffè Elena, where, in the autumn of 1993, a selection of clothes by Belgian designer Martin Margiela was presented in absolute preview. Finally, the last, the largest, in Via Maria Vittoria 45. It was a one-of-a-kind space, more like an art gallery than a clothing store where the art of presenting her very select collection of clothes, accessories, and loved ones took shape. First in the city and beyond, she proposed garments with austere, minimal lines that betray the symmetries and shapes of conventional fashion. In her shops she proposed dresses from the lines designed by Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons, a fashion house in which Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara and Adrian Joffe formed. In Alda’s space the people of Turin fell in love with the clothes of Yohji Yamamoto and Vivienne Westwood (an authentic muse for Alda). In the early 2000s, Jana first proposed the creations of European designers such as Paul Harnden, Elena Dawson, and Carol Christian Poell. Alda Farinella died in Turin on 4 February 2024. 

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Credits

Photo icon: Alberto Nidola, 2019

Photo in drawer: Silvia Pastore, Artissima 2019

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Maurizio Vetrugno per Jana 1993

Concept and intervention by Maurizio Vetrugno on the spaces of the Jana boutique in the headquarters in Piazza Vittorio Veneto - 1993
Photo by Giorgio Mussa

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Memorabilia

From the left Massimo Farinella, Maria Pia and Alda, Spotorno 1954

From the left Massimo Farinella, Alda and Maria Pia, Valdellatorre, June 1956

Alda's parents: from the left her father Emilio Farinella, her mother Adriana Corino, Pasquetta 1957

Alda Farinella

Alda Farinella

Alda University Booklet 

Alda University Booklet 

Jana, invitation for the autumn winter 1995 collection, print on cardboard, 14.8X10.5 cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation card for the presentation of the spring-summer collection MARTIN MARGIELA, 23 February 1995 print on cardboard, 10.5X14.8cm., courtesy JANA

Jana, autograph polaroid, 2003 ca.

Jana, invitation for the spring-summer collection, 12 February 2005, print on cardboard, 21x14.8cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation for the spring-summer collection, 12 February 2005, print on cardboard, 21x14.8cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation for the spring-summer 2006 collection, print on cardboard, 21x14.5cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation for the spring-summer 2006 collection, print on cardboard, 21x14.5cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation for the autumn winter 2007 collection, print on cardboard, 21x14.8cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Jana, invitation for the autumn winter 2007 collection, print on cardboard, 21x14.8cm. courtesy Andrea Cortella

Credits

A project by 

Circolo del Design

 

Curated by 

Maurizio Cilli

Sara Fortunati

Stefano Mirti

 

With the patronage of 

Città di Torino

 

Main supporter 

Fondazione Compagnia di San Paolo

 

With the contribution of 

Regione Piemonte

 

Funded by 

European Union – Next Generation EU

 

Circolo del Design is supported by 

Camera di Commercio di Torino

 

Episode 02 

Jana: The universe of Alda Farinella 

 

Direction 

Sara Fortunati

 

Curated by 

Maurizio Cilli

Stefano Mirti

 

Project coordination 

Marilivia Minnici

 

Art Direction 

Studio Grand Hotel

 

Website 

NewTab Studio

 

Production assistance

Nicholas Sabena

Communication 

Marta Della Giustina

Beatrice Vallorani

 

Press office 

Spin-To

 

Project controller 

Enza Brunero

 

Fundraising 

Rossana Bazzano

 

Organising secretary 

Dana Segovia

 

Administration 

Aline Nomis

 

Interns

Nicole Campesi

Ilenia Povero

Victoria Vera

 

In collaboration with 

IED – Istituto Europeo di Design

IAAD – Istituto d’Arte Applicata e Design

 

Special thanks to: 

Carlo Clinco

Massimo Farinella

Marinella Gazzano

Rita Oddo

 

We thank for the collaboration:  

Gianfranco Cavaglià

Angela Cecchinato

Andrea Cortella

Federico De Giuli

Isabella Errani

Alberto Nidola

Silvia Pastore

Matteo Thiela

Maurizio Vetrugno

Margherita Verani

Giorgia Zerboni